Tag: Photography Journal.

  • Strasbourg

    Strasbourg

    The French Side Celebrates

    One day after the empty streets of Freiburg, Strasbourg — one border over, same holiday — was packed. The French side celebrates Easter in the streets. Half-timbered houses, crowds at the base of every facade, and the cathedral at the center of it all.

    I had studied French language during my High School and University days and though it had been a long time since, then I still had a bit of the language in my head, and using it, though rusty, helped bring it back.

    The planning

    The contrast with the German side was the story of the holiday: same river, same weekend, opposite behavior. In Bavaria everyone is home or at church and the shops are shut. In Strasbourg the streets were full and the holiday was lived outdoors.

    The gear

    With the size of the crowds, I decided to put away the Fujifilm camera and stick with the Nikon. There were too many people, to worry about being spotted snapping an image, and beside, so many other people had cameras up catching photos. I also chose to stick with a prime lens instead of the zoom. The 56mm Sigma lens is a good mid-sized lens and with the wide f/1.4, I knew that I could capture a variety of depth of field.

    What went wrong

    Nothing recorded for this day.

    The shot that came out

    Crowds gather to celebrate Easter

    The half-timbered house, and the street underneath it — packed. That’s where the day’s story lives: not in the buildings, but in the people against them.

    The difference between Freiburg and Strasbourg was stunning. Where the streets in Freiburg were empty and quiet, the streets in Strasbourg were packed, noisy, and full of people from many cultures and ethnicities, all mingling peacefully and enjoying the holiday weekend. Children ran from stall to stall looking for sweet treats. The smell of food was everywhere — food stalls, outdoor cafe seating, open doors into restaurants. It was a sensory kaleidoscope.

    Salvation Army Brass Band Plays on the street

    And in the middle of it, a brass band — the French version of the Salvation Army. They took time on their holiday to play for the bustling crowd: a mix of hymns and secular music in one of the squares. Navy uniforms against the stone, fingers on valves, a bystander recording it on a phone. The cathedral towered over all of it, but the band was playing for the street.

    The Brass Band Plays on the Street

    The trombones. Diagonal slides cutting across the frame, the players’ focus unmistakable — this was work and devotion at once, a holiday offered to strangers.

    Entrance to the Strasbourg Cathedral

    And the facade over it all — monumental, permanent, watching. The crowd moved through the square; the stone stayed. But on this day, the stone was the backdrop and the people were the subject.

    Stained Glass Window Strasbourg Cathedral

    Step inside and the noise stops at the door. The cathedral holds a different kind of holiday: the grandeur of vaulted ceilings, the color and history of paintings and the altar, and quiet parishioners sitting in the pews reflecting. The somber silence inside is the other half of the day — and it’s not a contradiction. The city was celebrating the same weekend two ways at once: the jubilation in the square, the reflection in the pews.

    Visitors gather in the Nave of the Strasbourg Cathedral

    The nave, with visitors in it — for scale, and for the reminder that a cathedral’s size only registers when people stand in it.

    Watercolor on the Rhine

    Swans and Containers watercolor

    What I learned

    1. Interiors are color-management problems. The stained glass carries all the saturation; everything else should stay quiet so the window can sing.
    2. Age photographs well. The worn surfaces, the candle-dark corners, the mosaic bands — patina is texture, and texture is what the camera loves.

    Coming next: Karlsruhe


    Camera: Nikon Z6
    Lens: Sigma 56mm f/1.4 Prime Lens
    Exposure: 1/640 f/10 ISO 500
    Tracker: NA
    Location: Strasbourg, France
    Captured: April 4, 2026

  • Freiburg

    Freiburg

    Good Friday in an Empty City

    We reached Freiburg on Good Friday, and the city was holding its breath. Holy Week on the German side of the Rhine is taken seriously — Good Friday and Easter Sunday most of all. Shops and restaurants close, and people stay home or go to church. Walking the old town that morning, the streets belonged to a handful of tourists. Everyone else was indoors.

    The planning

    Easter weekend shaped the whole day. On the German side, Holy Week, Good Friday, and Easter Sunday are spent at home or at church, and almost everything closes for the holiday. So the plan was simple: walk the city while it was quiet and let the cathedral be the destination. One day later and one border over, Strasbourg would be packed with people enjoying the same holiday — the French side celebrates in the streets. Same river, two entirely different towns.

    The gear

    Fujifilm X100T, 23mm fixed lens — the small-town walk camera, on the day built for walking.

    What went wrong

    Nothing worth reporting. A quiet holiday in a quiet city.

    The shot that came out

    Freiburg Canal Monster

    The canal runs through the old town, and standing in it is a monster. An alligator statue, jaws up, half-submerged where the current breaks around it. Every German town seems to have a version of this story: parents told their children that if they misbehaved, the canal monster would come for them. Freiburg’s parents had been warning kids about a monster that didn’t exist — so eventually the city put one in the canal. The warning became literal. It’s the best kind of civic joke: official enough to be permanent, dark enough to keep working on children three hundred years later.

    Gargoyles on the tower

    The cathedral spire carries a grudge. The noble who commissioned the cathedral had a purser — a paymaster — who withheld the workers’ wages. The architect got even the medieval way: he carved the purser’s wife as a gargoyle and set her on the tower, with the water coming out of her backside. She has been up there ever since, spouting at the city that shorted the workers. Other tellings blame the city council and a nameless stonemason, and leave the wife out of it entirely — but as the Irish say, never let the truth get in the way of a good story. The purser’s wife stays.

    And the cathedral is a copy. The Freiburg cathedral was built from the same plans as the cathedral in Strasbourg — an exact match, both rising from the same drawings. That coincidence turned deadly during WWII: Allied pilots used the twin spires as waypoints on their bombing runs, and one group, certain they were over Strasbourg, bombed part of France instead of Germany. Two identical towers, one border, and a navigation error written in stone.

    Breisach Watercolor

    After lunch, back aboard at Breisach — the boat docks there while the coach runs to Freiburg — I walked up into Breisach itself to scout photographs and painting subjects. It was Good Friday, and the town was filling with people arriving for church services. I found the scene above and thought it looked like a fun one to paint. As I worked, a family gathered nearby, talking among themselves. Their kids wandered over to see what I was doing and stood watching for a while.

    That happened again and again as the cruise went on — except it wasn’t just locals. The other passengers started coming over to look at what I was painting, then seeking me out to see the paintings themselves. The painting, it turned out, got me adopted by the whole ship.

    What I learned

    1. The stories are in the stone. A monster dropped into a canal and an architect’s revenge on a tower — none of it appears in the guidebook summary, and all of it is better than the architecture alone. Ask what the locals were laughing about when they built it.
    2. A closed city is a gift. Good Friday emptied the streets, and for one morning the old town belonged to whoever showed up. The crowds in Strasbourg the next day were the price of the party.

    Coming next: Strasbourg


    Camera: Fujifilm X100T
    Lens: 23mm fixed
    Exposure:
    Tracker:
    Location: Freiburg, Germany
    Captured: April 3, 2026